At the Le Loi Hotel, forget your English

This hotel was a blessing, and we could have probably walked it from the train station, were it not for the 76 suitcases we were carrying with us. This actually served as a great lesson for the return trip, where I only came with a a small carry on. You simply cannot travel Viet Nam with more than one suitcase, on rollers preferably. At least, not if you are going to travel the way we did, and be in constant motion.

This is the newer wing of the hotel where we were lodged

We only had one night here, since we were leaving the next day for Nah Trang. But as we entered the reception area, it was the first time I would see hotel staff dressed in Ao Dai. It looked smashing. Since our reservations had been made ahead of time by Aurora Travel, the task of checking in was somewhat easier since no one could speak a word of English. By the time we arrived it was almost lunchtime, so here's some good advice if you are going to stay more than 48 hours: arrive in early morning if possible, since most historical tours of the city leave the hotel by 8:00 am.
We were housed in the newer of two wings and went past the courtyard that displayed a very handsome topiary of dragons. Up two flights of stairs with five suitcases wasn’t a piece of cake, but we had the good help of the hotel staff. Our room was replete with imperial style, lacquered furnishings. Panic almost set in when we couldn’t get the A/C to work, but following some fits and starts with one of the chambermaids, a gust of cool air could be felt. The shower was such a respite of pure joy, as we wondered how we would dry again upon return. Two large bath towels are all you get, folks, but toothpaste and toothbrushes accompany soap and shampoo in the small medicine cabinet. 

No one is going to steal those bed covers, rest assured!

The beds were a bit hard, with single pillows and extremely colorful floral blankets that covered both. The bedside table is equipped with remote-control buttons for lighting and a radio. A small TV and refrigerator look anachronistic in this setting of chinoiserie. A large window opened to a very bucolic setting: a small curved balcony held a potted plant, and what I suspect was either an ashtray, or a bird feeder. You look at the picture and try to figure it out. Also, from the window, one could see that slanted roofs of aluminum, stone, and other materials competed for space. Shooting straight up amid the angular planes were some lovely trees intended to provide much-needed shade. A caged bird served as an alarm clock the next morning, though I could hear his occasional ceremonious singing from time to time.

I've already told you that it was our good fortune to be situated right next to the Hue Gastronomic Center, where a free breakfast for hotel guests is served. And what a breakfast it was.

Laundry facilities are available for same day delivery and are slightly more expensive than either Ha Noi or Sai Gon, but still worth it in relative terms. The bill, however, is paid directly to the laundress rather than the hotel itself. She turned out to be located at the bottom of the stairs of our building.

Around the courtyard is a small gift shop where one can get film and other sundries. We were in need of a battery for Chuck’s camera and were told of a nonexistent shopping center down on Le Loi before the Truong Tien Bridge. 

This is as crowded as Le Loi Avenue will get

We started walking in the direction of the bridge as we thought we understood that there was a small shopping center before the crossing. The avenue is wide and shaded with lovely trees, but the heat is murder. Of course, everyone is either riding a bicycle or a motorbike, but not in the frightening masses that threaten to kill you as you cross the street in Ha Noi or Sai Gon. Also, as we approached the bridge crossing, I began to notice some pillars that bore resemblance to Cham architecture. Once you get acquainted with that type of architecture, you can recognize it anywhere. It is also found in Laos and Cambodia, where the Cham Empire ruled at one time.

I recommend that you either hire a taxi or take a cyclo to where you wish to go, as there is not really much to take in on this side of the Perfume River.

AYoung Girl in Hue

There are undoubtedly thousands of children like her in Viet Nam. Too poor to be sent to school, so parents most likely urge them to beg for money. You don't really see many beggars in the large cities; but you will see children peddling just about anything from postcards, to chewing gum, to books, to roses and they will haggle with you with the seriousness and impetuosity of a child.

The scene on the other side of the Truong Tien Bridge where the Imperial City lies

For some reason, her face struck me with its quiet beauty and innocence. We had just arrived from the other side of the Perfume River, and had not yet gone on our adventure with the cyclo drivers. We knew that we were not anywhere near the entrance to the Forbidden City, but it is my nature to make the best of any situation. 

a street divider with impeccably trimmed lawn with flowers

 

We passed a large gate; it's hard to keep track of how many of these there are. Then a great expanse of green grass, and some beautifully manicured lawn with bright red flowers in its center. Those are the things that hint that this city had a glorious and esthetically beautiful past. But then, modern signs of poverty intertwine with this beauty. On the side of the road was a half covered basket of something that looked like beans, or huge peanuts. 



We started walking, and I saw a girl selling fruit and other snacks near the road. To my great delight, I found out she was selling guavas on a stick. As I approached to get two of them, a man suddenly appeared behind me, and tried his hand at brokering a deal with the price. Under no uncertain terms, I told him to get lost, and that my business was with the girl.


One of the interesting things they do with guava here is dip it in chili which is so hot, I personally couldn't handle it. So I ordered them plain, and we went to sit down to enjoy our fruit on two marble benches. No sooner had we sat down, that I saw two girls making their way toward us. At moments like these, you do realize that speaking the same language is really not necessary. The gesturing, the eyes, the body language,-all of these things come into play. I had brought some New York souvenirs with me, and offered her one of them. She showed no interest. I motioned her to sit next to me, and she did. She then rubbed her belly to indicate hunger. She had no interest in the guava,- she wanted money. She rubbed her thumb and forefinger together several times, which is indicative of $$, or in her case, dong.


Even though I knew she would not understand me, I was telling her that she ought to be in school.  I was torn between giving in to her demands, and taking her home with me (which of course, would have been totally illegal). I found an American coin and gave it to her...at which point, our cyclo drivers were making their pitch to us for a ride. One of them showed me a notebook he had been carrying around, which was a "portfolio" of his work. Testimonials of folks he had taken around the city, coupled with "thank you's", most of them in English. We took leave of the girls, and each one of us sat comfortably in a cyclo, and I had my camera in hand. Thankfully, the pictures were not disappointing.  Below is another example of the disparity between what was and what is.

there's always laundry hanging somewhere

As we were being taken away from the Imperial grounds, I wanted a snapshot of everyday life which I found on one of the side streets with some shops. As you can notice, there are no choking crowds as there might have been on a similar street in Ha Noi, or Sai Gon. All of two motorcycles are parked, and two men are engaged in conversation. 
It would take about an hour for us to return to the perimeter of the Forbidden City, and even if you've never been there, the grounds tell you immediately that you have arrived. It's impossible not to know.

A side view of the main gate, called the Ngo Mon Gate

Another Detour to the Ngoc Huong Pagoda

Our cyclo guides tried their best to give us a flavor of Hue, aside from the Forbidden Purple City. One of the interesting places was the Ngoc Huong Pagoda, and I couldn't tell you where it is, but if you're in Hue, flag a cyclo, and I bet they will know exactly where to take you. The pagoda is recessed from the street, and is surrounded by water, except for a paved alley which led to the main gate that was under lock and chain.

As we rose from our cyclos to make our way to the Pagoda, there was an old man wading in the water, and it wasn't quite clear what he was doing, but perhaps he may have been cleaning the water. He had his hand on a canoe, and the stream was filled with leaves. His other hand held a bucket or basket; he may have been scooping water out of the canoe.

I'd like to add a post scrip to this scenario. This visit was taking place at a time when Viet Nam was at the height of the bird flu scare. We had been avoiding chickens like the plague; and you can imagine my alarm when two men came running toward us with a chicken in their hands (it was not dead). 

I probably scared them with my shrieks of "get away from me with this bird" ; perhaps they had not heard the news. Anyway, it seemed an eternity before anyone came to open the gate. A very regal looking monk, dressed in orange garb, came to unlock the gate and silently disappeared. I guess he realized that we were "tourists". 

We followed our guide into the Pagoda; remember to leave your shoes outside. This was not the first pagoda I had been to; but it would be unfair to compare the temple in Bangkok's Grand Palace grounds, where we chanted to the Emerald Buddha as we sat on the floor. That was a royal treat!! OK, back to Hue. 

A likeness of Buddha sits atop the altar in the center of the Pagoda

The altar onto which the likeness of Buddha rests is in the center. It is elevated, so that the lower levels can be used for offerings which are commonplace when the faithful come for prayers or spiritual guidance. Flowers and fruit are the most usual items to be offered. Before you can pray, or meditate, you must light 2 joss sticks; joss sticks are humongous incense sticks, and they are easily found in markets all over Viet Nam. We brought back a batch of them from the market we visited in Bac Ha . The guide proceeded to light the incense and I watched him, as he put his hands together, and up to his forehead, and bowed 3 times. 

Then it was my turn, and I did the same. I learned during my trip, and by picking up a book on the Viet Namese people while there, that as a rule, Viet Namese people are not religious, but are extremely spiritual. They practice a form of ancestor worship, and go to great lengths to make sure that their ancestor's spirits are taken care of. Cemeteries in Viet Nam are extremely ubiquitous and colorful. 

Typical cemetery shot from the train going from Hue to Nah Trang

We did go around the chamber, and I saw portraits of monks that had died; one of them actually quite famous is pictured here; he had set himself on fire in protest. In front of each framed picture was an abundance of flowers, oranges, and other fruit. Following this cleansing exercise, we quietly walked outside, and headed for the gate. En route, I could see men at work, fixing a roof, and a burian tree with fruit that had apparently rotted. Durian actually don't look this bad. To see how pretty they really are, click on this link to go to the My Tho Fruit Market .

You really don't want to eat this fruit

Train Station at Hue

The Train Station at Hue is either deserted or mobbed. That entirely depends upon the train schedule. As you can see from the below photo, this was way earlier than the train was expected to arrive. We also had to get our tickets, and we had first class reservations since the trip was an overnighter. All stations are lined with vendors vying for your business; it's mostly food and drink for the ride. 

For all the francophiles out there, "Ga", meaning station, was taken from the French word "Gare". Since it was the French that built the railroad for the Vietnamese, I guess it makes some sense. But other words sneaked their way into the language. Here are a couple just for fun: bia (beer from the French bière); dam (woman from the French "Madame")and bup pe (doll from the French "poupée").

Though the line had barely three people in it, there was one particular individual who was intent in cutting in front of me. My guardian angel, who had been there when we arrived, showed up to say goodbye, I suppose. The photo I took of him is absolutely awful and unfocused, but the only one I have. He very kindly stepped to the window in front of the "shover" and allowed me to get the tickets. I was so grateful that I walked back with him to his little café/grocery across from the station to stock up for the trip. He had fresh croissants, coconut cookies, peanut and sesame brittle which were to become my new obsession, Snicker bars (hey!!), and bananas...I knew that whatever I bought would never go to waste, and of course, it was extremely inexpensive. I hope he sees his picture here. He thanked me profusely for my purchases. 

Upon my return, we were told to move to the main "waiting area", and now I know why the station wasn't crowded. Everyone who was leaving Hue was in this room. After we sat, we quickly realized that the air conditioning system was on the blink. This is not a good thing. The windows were on the other side of the hall, and we decided, with all the luggage, to make a move to the other side, in search of air. Though we did not find much relief, we did manage to meet some of the nicest people who were seated in front and to the side of us. 

This is when I learned all about the Viet Kieu, the term used for Vietnamese nationals who left the country , or rather escaped, after the American War, mostly from the South and made America their home. There is almost a quarter million of them living in Southern California, and these men proudly told us they were from America, and had come to Hue to visit family. The Viet Kieu contribute billions to the local economy in Vietnam through investments and family support. Until recently, and I don't know if the law has changed, but there was talk in the newspapers about allowing these expatriates to hold dual citizenship to make either visiting or re-locating to Vietnam more attractive.

It started innocently enough with the young woman who was sitting next to me in the stifling waiting room. She was a ceramics designer, and was accompanying the rest of the family, including the war veterans, to Saigon, for an even larger family reunion. As the conversation became wider, the men began to talk about fighting the war against the North, and then so proudly told us, we are Americans, just like you. I beamed. 
We would be waiting here for the train for over two hours, as mid-way through our wait, we heard over the loudspeakers that the train was being delayed. I kept thinking of the relief on board of the air-conditioned cars, which is a heavenly blessing in this type of weather. 

Suddenly, everyone was talking and exchanging business cards and emails. We ended up sharing our compartment with the traveler from Taiwan, a man who offered me a paper fan when he realized my distress with the heat. I still have it in my office, and it's purple, just like the Forbidden City of Hue.

Inside the Forbidden City

the emptiness represents bombed areas for the most part

Though everyone equates Hue with its imperial past, it is not only splendor and royalty that are recorded on these walls. During the Tet Offensive, a turning point in the War, the Viet Cong and North Vietnamese forces fought one of the longest and fiercest battles in this ancient capital city, killing masses of people and carrying out systematic executions in what was to be known as the "Massacre at Hue". If the walls could talk, I am sure they'd have stories to tell. Once you get past the gate, and away from the Palace, you begin to realize how immense this city was and is. Aside from the vast expanses of green grass and dirt roads are stand-alone walls that were once part of a building of sorts. The American War, as it is called here in VietNam, caused much of the damage, though hostilities prior to America's arrival had already left their mark here.Some of the walls still have their lovely archways, but all there is to see is grass on either side. At times, beyond the uncut grass, you'll catch a glimpse of part of the moat, its waters so still , except for the one nearest the entrance, which brims with life of koi fish.

I stared at the walls of this archway for a long time, as if waiting to hear something. It was still standing as if to tell me, I am here, but I have seen horrors; I have seen the inhumanity of man against man. And my old bones will remain so that I can tell those that will follow you and cross my path.

It was well after the war that mass graves had been discovered on these grounds, and the evidence showed that civilians had been tortured before being murdered. Some were thought to have been buried alive. Such carnage in an area that beheld so much splendor and majesty!

One of the buildings that appeared unscathed, but was closed to visitors, was the "Thai Binh" Reading Pavilion. It was surrounded by a beautiful garden, and someone was lovingly tending to it when we arrived at its entrance. It was built during the reign of Thieu Tri (1841-1847), and underwent restoration in 1921, and again, after the American War, in 1990 and 1991. The mosaics are superb and the style in great part Chinese. When I looked at the roofing, I was immediately reminded of similar roofs I had seen in Bankgok, at the Grand Palace. Far apart, yet bound by the same influence.

The Thai Binh Reading Pavilion

We walked around the building several times, peaking through the windows to try to catch a glimpse of what was inside. There were ladders and cords everywhere, and it was hard to see anything.

This is the landscaped garden to the side of the Reading Pavilion. It is not difficult to imagine that it must have been majestic at one time. A very high and ornate wall runs along the entire side as part of the enclosure; remember that you had to go through several gates to get into the heart of the Forbidden City.

The columns which support the structures are quite decorated colorful mosaic designs and Chinese characters. The Pavilion is the only building to have escaped destruction from the war.

This flower and rock garden lies directly in front of the main gate to the Pavilion

The workmanship of the roof is stunning

We walked around and during those walks we would come upon a structure, like a gazebo, that has been restored by the Canadians. There would be an inscription giving the date and credit to the contributing country. As we neared the end of our walk, we came upon another building, also closed. At the foot of the steps were stone lions, much like guardians in their demeanor. Right in front was a huge cannon, and I wondered if that was part of the original landscape, or a remnant of the war.

There was much more to see in Hue, but on a less than 48 hour stopover, we never saw the seven Imperial urns. It's a great excuse to come back.

if walls could talk

Nha Nhac of Hue court

An introduction to Hue

Hue was the ancient Imperial Capital of Viet Nam....this is a wonderful introduction to the colors and sounds...which will be followed by my own experiences.

Hue: How Emperors Lived

The past splendor of this imperial city cannot be justified in the less than 48 hours we allowed ourselves for this visit. The entire schedule was crazy, because there was so much we wanted to see, and so little time we had. Actually, it wasn't a full 2 days, more like a day and a half, with some sleep in between. We arrived by train from Ha Noi, and as usual, expected to be accosted by every cyclo and cab driver waiting for customers at the station. Luckily, our hotel was a stone's throw from the station, but we were carrying way too much.

As with everything in my travels, I'm not going to take the usual route with you to Hue. That would be to take you to the forbidden purple city, and we'll leave that perhaps for last, since it's "dessert" and should be savored as such. I will take you to an emperor's vacation home, within the confines of Hue, but on the other side of the Perfume River.  Bear in mind that Hue is a UNESCO world heritage site, but it is in desperate need of repair, and some structures have suffered too much damage (during the Viet Nam War) to ever be restored.

 

On Le Loi Avenue, which is the main drag from the train station, it is rather quiet compared to the frenzy one encounters in either Ha Noi or Sai Gon. You can actually walk if you can stand the heat, by seeking refuge on the shady side. The avenue is tree lined, and as you approach the Truong Tien Bridge to the other side, cyclo drivers will be more than happy to transport you. Once you have crossed the river, (it's a really steep upgrade at first, and those poor drivers really need to hustle), do not get off until the driver has taken you to the gate of the Imperial City. Otherwise, you will end up like we did, - on the outskirts and live bait for other drivers that will literally hound you until you give in to them. 

This particular pair of drivers wanted to show us something out of the ordinary, so far as I was able to understand. It's usually more comfortable for each person to have his/her own cyclo, though we did double up on the way here, and it was murder for the poor driver. So one was driving ahead of the other, and since I had the camera, I was doing all the shooting while Chuck was falling fast asleep in his carriage. And so, we began rolling away from the Citadel to this mysterious destination. 

We passed some very poor areas, with street signs that were lopsided, and ubiquitious laundry lines, and children in their school clothing were either walking or on their bicycles. As we turned another corner, I made the driver stop so I could take a snapshot of what appeared to be the gate to a very elegant residence. There was some construction, apparently unexpected, so we made a detour. As I looked up, I saw rooftops with extremely ornate decorations, very typically Chinese as is the influence here. We will definitely see this influence repeated in the Imperial Citadel, which was modeled after the one in China. 

We finally stopped in front of a breathtaking gate and if a picture is worth a thousand words, then let me save mine, and have you take a look. 

the gate to Heritage House

Needless to say, anything we felt toward our pushy drivers disappeared the very instant we set eyes on this place. I learned that many of these abandoned imperial vacation homes have been turned into "heritage houses", and there are people tending to their upkeep. We were not escorted inside, but we were free to roam and look. I studied the columns of the gate, all the while admiring the ornate dragon relief decorations, all done in ceramic. There are areas that were covered in crabgrass, but they were charming nevertheless, as the sound of running streams permeated the air. As I carefully walked on the grass, I spotted a terra cotta container with a mostly spent candle inside. I assumed that at night, they set a romantic mood to this place with strategically placed candle holders like this one.  

I had wanted to see imperial bedrooms in a palatial setting, but this was not to be. Everything to be seen and admired was more or less out in the open, or in recessed covered areas. As you walk to the right from the gate area, you come upon a sitting area; the table and benches are faded, but one can imagine a royal setting. The carved doors are exquisite, and appear newer, or perhaps they had been restored. 

 
As you can see from the photo, there is a time warp between the wooden doors and the seating area. I did spot one young woman who may have worked there, and she was tending to the seating areas, as if expecting guests.  All the smaller tables in more intimate settings were covered with lace cloths, and I spotted paper menus on table tops. The furnishings in general were made to resemble Chinese cherrywood items. 

A lovely table setting in very serene surroundings

All that is missing are the guests

The architecture of Hue City is a composite of many influences. It was said that one its strongest influences came from Dong Son culture, accompanied by the influx of northern emigrants before the 2nd century and Sa Huynh culture after 13th century. These influences have resulted in the birth of Viet-Champa culture, which during its evolution, did not excluded influences from various civilizations (of southeast Asia, China, India, western countries, etc.). By the way, Champa culture has left some wonderful traces in Nah Trang, which we will be talking about later in the blog. 

Other items to look at and admire were the mother of pearl incrusted wood chests, as well as porcelain vases decorated with indigo blue motifs. The photo shows the high chest, and ceramics, and the pillar in the foreground does not betray the fact that there are only two walls to this "chamber". I got close enough to the statue to scrutinize the mother of pearl adornments which seemed very authentic. The statue must have been of a warrior. 

You might be tempted to purchase vases or ceramics, but you'll be able to make the killing at Bat Trang Village, so save your dong for that trip. However, you'll be glad you came here, which was the "playground" of the Nguyen Dynasty in all its splendor. By the way, Nguyen is the name equivalent of John or James in Viet Nam. Everyone is either a Nguyen, or knows a Nguyen.