Let's break for the beach for a change of pace...

It's amazing that there are still people in the United States that believe Vietnam is a vast swampland, and that its inhabitants are waiting around the corners for Americans so they can shoot them. How do I know this? As the U.S. agent for Aurora Travel, I have had the pleasure to speak to countless numbers of people traveling to Vietnam who need help in either designing a tour, or are curious, and we talk about my experiences. The ones that have gone ahead with their plans were positively ecstatic about their visit. It's important to remember though, that aside from a vigorous city life, Vietnam also has a quieter, more languorous side to it, and it is evident in its seaside resorts which are located north of Saigon.

We only scratched the surface of this aspect of Vietnamese travel when we stopped in Nha Trang. We arrived there by train from Hue, and really did not know what we would find except for what I had read in the 'guide books'.  The photo at the top is taken at dusk, and what you're seeing is the South China Sea. There are treasures that await you here, especially if you scuba dive or snorkel. Unfortunately, I do neither...But I grew up in a culture that considered the seashore part of its everyday life. Thus, it is no wonder that no matter which corner of the globe I find myself in, the radar is always on for palm trees, balmy breezes, and white sands.

Let's start with our hotel...appropriately called the Green Hotel, the outside is a bit deceiving.  The color may not sit well with many people, and even myself, a lover of green, was a bit curious upon arriving. However, having arrived at night, the color is more subdued.

Getting to the hotel itself was an adventure. What should have been no more than a 5-minute ride from the station turned into an excursion with our driver, who stopped in front of a very formal-looking, deserted building. Caution: if you are not where you need to be, don’t get out of the taxi, as it may take forever to find another one, especially in a blind alley. Our taxi driver had expectedly gone through all of his “OK, OK, OKs”, which at this point meant zero, as the number of the building was not even the same as our hotel. Eventually, we did get to the right place!

yes, rattan, but with an Oriental flavor all its own; the room was cool

and made up for the very uncomfortable heat outside.

The heat and humidity were relentless, even at 11pm, and were alleviated by the delightful icy air blowing out of the overhead unit above the sliding glass doors of our room. This was luxurious indeed, and the first king-size bed I had seen on this trip before our return to Saigon. The room was appropriately furnished in rattan in traditional Vietnamese style; the parquet floors were spotless. We were recommended to this hotel by VietnamStay.Com,  and frankly, it was better than either one of us expected. I was already beginning to regret that we were here for only a day, but already we knew that this country had not seen the last of us, so there was some consolation on that end.

Twenty-four-hour room service is available here from the Jasmine Restaurant, where we had delicious food. We were on the fifth of seven floors, so we were able to enjoy an extended view that borrowed some pieces of the ocean. Direct dialing can be arranged from your room, where you can also enjoy satellite TV if you have the time. There is also an in-room minibar, electric water heater, and yes, a hair dryer, along with the extra toothbrushes and paste. All the amenities are wrapped in green!

The people at the reception desk are amongst the most courteous we encountered; they can arrange for any tours and book air and train tickets for you, should you require it. Safe deposit boxes are also made available.

The gift shop downstairs also has Internet stations, but I don’t recommend them, as the connection is slower than molasses.  For the tired and weary, massage, Jacuzzi, steam baths, and sauna are to be had right in the hotel. For the business-oriented traveler, they have a center downstairs as well that offers photocopy machines, secretarial and typing services, translation, and interpreters.
 

 if you look very closely, you can see through the glass one of the

diners in the huge Jasmine restaurant

 
In-house function hall and summit rooms make meetings possible on the premises. Taxis are usually available during the day, as they are parked directly across the street from the Green Hotel. Otherwise, the staff will make the call for you. I truly loved this place!



Now, for the beach goer, you have about 7 kilometers of coastal water for your pleasure. But the unexpected pleasures we found were even more delightful than the beach. Extraordinary examples of Cham culture awaited us and we also, inadvertently, saw a mass in progress in honor of the late Pope John Paul II. Ten percent or so of the Vietnamese population is catholic.

And the Art Center...to do it justice, I would have to show you every single piece of artwork shown there; but we did one better! We actually got to see the ladies laboring over these huge cloth stenciled patterns with their silk threads and needles. So little time, yet crammed with activity.

A fine example of Cham architecture, and the whole

story is forthcoming, so hang in there.

The Continental Hotel is still the jewel of Saigon

Sure, there are hotels that are more 'posh' and modern, but if I wanted to have those, the US can drown me in them...actually, now that I think of it, so can Abu Dhabi. However, no matter if you stay at a five star, or a two-star, you need at least a weekend at the Continental. There is an atmosphere in the place that makes you want to talk to the walls, as they'd probably have so much to say.

 The Venezia Restaurant has replaced the old "Cafe de la Musique" in this dated picture

The Continental Hotel earned its place in history, as its former terrace café served diplomats and journalists during the American War. If you saw the movie “The Quiet American,” then you might remember that the Continental Hotel was the locale for part of the story. If you didn't see the movie, go ahead and rent the DVD. It's a great and romantic love narrative and you'll get acquainted with Saigon.

 The hotel tells you its age: since 1880

As you walk in, you can almost feel the history envelop you and beckon you to stay. It didn’t take much convincing actually, as we had established a silent dialogue between us that said we’ve got to experience this.


The hotel itself is situated in the heart of District One in Saigon, where anything worth its weight is located. In fact, most of the hotels I mentioned are within walking distance of each other. The Caravelle sits right across the street, only separated by the majestic Opera House. One of the entrances is on posh Dong Khoi Street, facing an amazing bookstore called Fahasa, which deserves its post. I had gone in there, and was thrilled by the selection of French books, something I had not seen since the Librarie de France shut down in Rockefeller Center.

 inside courtyard where you can dine al fresco

On one of the other corners, construction is going up fast and furious, and we learn a new mall is coming. Shame, since Dong Khoi has a string of fantastic boutiques of silk and mother of pearl crafts, lacquered items that are positively bewitching, embroideries, art and more.


We were shown a room prior to our booking during our first phase of the trip in Saigon , and we were awestruck. The room we finally did get was no less regal. We did not have decent photos of the room, which was humongous, so to get a feel for the interiors, I am giving you a link to the hotel's website. When you begin the see the layout of the rooms, and all the wood carving, you'll understand what I'm trying to convey. It looks exactly as the photos. We had one huge king size bed instead of the twin beds that appear; other than that, everything is identical.


 We were able to share the balcony with large potted palms in the evening, as the air was less humid. As we arrived in the room, the living area, which is larger than my own living room at home, was so very welcoming with an assortment of those gorgeous fruits, from the Mekong Delta undoubtedly. The hot-water container was there, with the magical white coffee that became our addiction. The ceilings were so high and adorned with exquisite woodwork that continued from the entrance hall and turned into wall-length closets with plush, white robes and straw slippers for the bath. A king-size bed anchored the room, separated by a built-in wooden room divider with some lovely, typical Vietnamese sculptures.

Behind that were carved benches and sofa for “entertaining,” and one could conceivably have a party here for six or more people quite comfortably. I later realized this is very typical of luxury rooms, as we had a similar arrangement in a deluxe room in Hanoi, at the Hong Ngoc Hotel. Room rates range from $100 to $170, exclusive of VAT and a 5% service charge. A fabulous breakfast is included in the room rate.

 how's that for a welcome?

 Facilities include a banquet, conference room, bar, and fitness center. On the ground floor, you will find the executive business center and a concierge (they call it public relations). The hotel has its own website , and I encourage you to check it out. The folks at the reception area are very polite and accommodating. There are historical pictures on the walls of the hotel from as far back as the 1880s.




The morning breakfast spread is an eye opener...exotic fruits rule one long buffet style table; pho is de rigueur and then there will be cheese, yoghurts, tea and coffee...just lovely.

The Rex Hotel

We did not stay at the Rex Hotel, however, it's impossible to come to Saigon and not visit this place, if only because it served as a base for US journalists during the war. This was the place of intrigue and espionage, where the military would come to take respite and perhaps find solace.


The hotel was built by the French originally as a garage for Renault in the 1950's. In the 1990's , it underwent a massive renovation and today, though it might be considered a luxury hotel, it has a bit of gaudiness to it. The façade is quite regal (aptly as the name implies), but as we circled around the building, and looked at some of its walls, it was strange to notice a full length ad for a Beatles-like concert, with an admission of US$35pp.


The Rex is minutes away from the City's People Committee Office, an extraordinary building with its own history, as well as the Opera House, posh Dong Khoi Street where you can shop till you turn blue, and overlooking Ho Chi Minh City Park, a stretch of green with lovely flowers with Uncle Ho's statue at one of the park's ends. It's right in the city center, along with other major hotels, so you are really in District 1 where you want to be.


One of the hotel's claims to fame is its rooftop bar, which we didn't see, but it is heavily advertised within the hotel itself, and of course, I picked up a postcard/brochure, below.

The photo was in bright colors but I decided to modify into sepia tone, as it fit the image of a refuge during war times. This is the place where the memories still remain, of the famous “Five O’clock Follies” where the international correspondents were covering the Vietnam war. What was that? The "Five O’clock Follies” was the name given to Saigon press briefings during the war, and as one blogger said it: "It became famous because of lines like, "We had to destroy the village in order to save it."


On the bright side of things, Newsweek called this the best rooftop bar in Southeast Asia. (1996). There are several other restaurants and bars in the hotel, notably the Hoa Mai Restaurant which serves Vietnamese and French Cuisine, the Cung Dinh Restaurant that offers 3 different types of regional Vietnamese Cuisine, a shushi bar, and coffee lounge and the Rose Garden, which is geared toward large capacity events.

As we made our way through the entrance, I began to understand the word "kitsch". This seating area is quite lovely, but I am not sure it is enhanced by these enormous ivory tusks, which say nothing about Vietnamese culture. Right next to this was a huge aquarium with some of the most exotic fish I had ever seen. At one time in my life, I had 5 of these in an apartment, so you can imagine that I know something about fish. You can actually stare at them for hours and never tire.

This one looks more like a flower or some sort of painted marigold than a fish. The other one has characteristics of an angel fish, but with more rounded fins, and of course, color!!!

One of the other pieces of publicity I picked up in my ramblings around the hotel was about the Mimosa Club, which is located on the 6th floor. You need membership, but it looks like it has things that dreams are made of. A sauna (not the wet kind, the dry kind with wonderful wood panels), a swimming pool which someone had mentioned was too small, a gym, a jacuzzi which is my favorite and a tennis court. I may be overruled here, but I can't see myself playing tennis in this kind of heat. There is also a beauty salon and massage...the stuff of aahhhhhh's. Preview below.

Now you know as much as about the Rex as I do. If you click on the link above, you'll be taken to their website where you can view accommodations, pricing, etc..However, one can usually get much better pricing going through an agency.

At the Le Loi Hotel, forget your English

This hotel was a blessing, and we could have probably walked it from the train station, were it not for the 76 suitcases we were carrying with us. This actually served as a great lesson for the return trip, where I only came with a a small carry on. You simply cannot travel Viet Nam with more than one suitcase, on rollers preferably. At least, not if you are going to travel the way we did, and be in constant motion.

This is the newer wing of the hotel where we were lodged

We only had one night here, since we were leaving the next day for Nah Trang. But as we entered the reception area, it was the first time I would see hotel staff dressed in Ao Dai. It looked smashing. Since our reservations had been made ahead of time by Aurora Travel, the task of checking in was somewhat easier since no one could speak a word of English. By the time we arrived it was almost lunchtime, so here's some good advice if you are going to stay more than 48 hours: arrive in early morning if possible, since most historical tours of the city leave the hotel by 8:00 am.
We were housed in the newer of two wings and went past the courtyard that displayed a very handsome topiary of dragons. Up two flights of stairs with five suitcases wasn’t a piece of cake, but we had the good help of the hotel staff. Our room was replete with imperial style, lacquered furnishings. Panic almost set in when we couldn’t get the A/C to work, but following some fits and starts with one of the chambermaids, a gust of cool air could be felt. The shower was such a respite of pure joy, as we wondered how we would dry again upon return. Two large bath towels are all you get, folks, but toothpaste and toothbrushes accompany soap and shampoo in the small medicine cabinet. 

No one is going to steal those bed covers, rest assured!

The beds were a bit hard, with single pillows and extremely colorful floral blankets that covered both. The bedside table is equipped with remote-control buttons for lighting and a radio. A small TV and refrigerator look anachronistic in this setting of chinoiserie. A large window opened to a very bucolic setting: a small curved balcony held a potted plant, and what I suspect was either an ashtray, or a bird feeder. You look at the picture and try to figure it out. Also, from the window, one could see that slanted roofs of aluminum, stone, and other materials competed for space. Shooting straight up amid the angular planes were some lovely trees intended to provide much-needed shade. A caged bird served as an alarm clock the next morning, though I could hear his occasional ceremonious singing from time to time.

I've already told you that it was our good fortune to be situated right next to the Hue Gastronomic Center, where a free breakfast for hotel guests is served. And what a breakfast it was.

Laundry facilities are available for same day delivery and are slightly more expensive than either Ha Noi or Sai Gon, but still worth it in relative terms. The bill, however, is paid directly to the laundress rather than the hotel itself. She turned out to be located at the bottom of the stairs of our building.

Around the courtyard is a small gift shop where one can get film and other sundries. We were in need of a battery for Chuck’s camera and were told of a nonexistent shopping center down on Le Loi before the Truong Tien Bridge. 

This is as crowded as Le Loi Avenue will get

We started walking in the direction of the bridge as we thought we understood that there was a small shopping center before the crossing. The avenue is wide and shaded with lovely trees, but the heat is murder. Of course, everyone is either riding a bicycle or a motorbike, but not in the frightening masses that threaten to kill you as you cross the street in Ha Noi or Sai Gon. Also, as we approached the bridge crossing, I began to notice some pillars that bore resemblance to Cham architecture. Once you get acquainted with that type of architecture, you can recognize it anywhere. It is also found in Laos and Cambodia, where the Cham Empire ruled at one time.

I recommend that you either hire a taxi or take a cyclo to where you wish to go, as there is not really much to take in on this side of the Perfume River.

Luca comes to dinner

Part of the reason for my second visit to Viet Nam was to meet up with a business associate from Manila so that we could explore possibilities of manufacturing paper in the Northern part of the country. He is an exhuberant, jovial and hilarious Italian, and as Italian as they come. His name is Luca. He immediately felt home in Ha Noi, as his twenty years and counting of living in the Philippines have enured him to Asian culture. And certainly, there are differences, but in essence, Luca makes himself understood with his semi-farcical gesturing and irresistible tirades.

So, we invited Luca to join us for an evening of live music and dinner at the Hong Ngoc Hotel, he was staying at another one of their locations not too far from our own. When we had arrived at the hotel the first night, we had noticed the instruments hanging above the stage and I knew we would make time to enjoy whomever would play them. They were all lovely, young Viet Namese women in demure dresses, one of them wearing the traditional Ao Dai costume.

There are so many varieties of instruments in Viet Namese music which borrow from other cultures, it's hard to keep up. But I have always been interested in zithers, as an Austrian friend of mine, many moons ago, had introduced me to this instrument as it was being used with Hungarian Rhapsody # 5 (one of my favorites). As far as zithers go, I have realized that you either love them, or you hate them. Some people find them downright annoying. I'm grateful that no one that evening walked out.

 

Dressed in Ao Dai, she's plucking the dan tranh

 

Dan Tranh is a 16-chord zither. What does that mean? A zither is a plucking instrument, sort of like a lute or harp, but it sits on your lap. If you click on the link,you can get the technical details as to the length, the height, the composition of the frame, etc..In order to play the Dan Tranh, the musician will wear finger plectrums on the thumb, the forefinger and middle finger only; these plectrums can be made of tortoise shell, animal horns or metal. It is reported that Dan Tranh was developed after the Tran Dynasty Chinese zither which counted either 9, 15 or 16 strings. For the last 800 years though, the Viet Namese developed specific techniques which made the instrument their own.

This resembles the Ty Ba plucking instrument which was known in China as Pipa and in Japan as Biwa. Though it is not pear shaped, and has 2 strings instead of 4, all the other characteristics are identical. The face is undecorated, and made of light and highly polished wood. Its head is sometimes carved into a longevity figure, and it comprises 4 tuning pegs at the neck. It is a member of the lute family and its length may vary. The nylon strings replaced the olden-days use of silk. It has become a core part of the Viet Namese string culture. 

 

the musician in the center is playing the tam thap luc

 

Even the name of this 36-string zither is intimidating: Tam Thap Luc. It is of Viet Namese origin, and is made from soft, and light undecorated wood. On the surface, the two rows of bridges are alternately arranged consequently making 18 bridges for each row. At the left string holders, there are 36 hooks for string hanging, while at the right string holders, 36 tuning pegs are located. Strings are made from metal. Mallets consist of 2 thin and flexible bamboo slabs with their ends covered with felt for soft sounds. This instrument can be played "solo" or in an orchestra. When playing, instrumentalist beats on the surface of Tam Thap Luc with two mallets and takes advantages of techniques such as vibration, tremolo, stopping, sliding, making chords, and others. Not easy.

a very casual, and warm atmosphere

 

Back to the dinner table. The room was not particularly crowded, however, this was an easy way to participate in a cultural activity while resting one's feet for more arduous journeys. We were seated to the left of the stage, and had a great vantage point for viewing and taking pictures. We were so immersed into our conversation that we forgot to take pictures of all the plates, which were as scrumptious as they looked. The Christmas decorations were done tastefully and none too gory, as they can be at times. It was a marvelous evening in every way possible; the ambiance, the food, the friendship make it all very hard to forget.

Chuck, me, Luca

Hong Ngoc Hotel

The view from our terrace

You may wish to visit their website. We were very spoiled when we were there.

One of the charms of Viet Nam is the people, so I do try, as often as I can, to talk to the people who host our stay and if they speak English, I do a little more than just listen, I take notes. And this was the case with the owner of this 5 chain hotel, of which this was the first.

Thang Hoang is 35 years old and started working at this very hotel 13 years ago doing housekeeping when his aunt owned the place. Today, he is impeccably dressed every morning and greets his guests individually. We received some special attention from him, as we were sent by Van at Aurora Travel. Yes, we had the penthouse suite on the fifth floor.

Back to Thang; he was born in Hai Duong, which is 50 kms from Ha Noi. He has two olders brothers, and a younger one who died. His father was a math teacher and his mother owned a trading company. By Viet Namese standards, this is very upper middle class. He finished high school and taught himself English, and his computer skills are also self-acquired. He admitted to me that not many Americans come through the hotel, but now that Viet Nam has joined the WTO, he expects there might be more.

choux à la crème

What I found particularly poignant was that his wife of eleven years was working in Taiwan, and her labor contract must have already expired, so I do hope she is back home with Thang and their two children. The Viet Namese are extremely hard working people and have little time to lament over what was. Their future is what interests them, and we could certainly learn from them when it comes to attitude.

The staff at Hong Ngoc Hotel was getting ready for Christmas. As we had our first breakfast the next morning in the dining room, we watched them put together Santa Claus outside the window. The breakfast spread is amazing, and I for one, fell in love with Viet Namese yogurt the first time I visited. The vanilla is much better than the strawberry, so have a go at it. As far as tea goes, if you are a conoisseur, forget about the tea here. The best you'll get is the Lipton Yellow, or the Viet Namese tea, which, frankly, has no taste. So, go for the coffee because it is smooth, aromatic and sweet.


you can also order eggs, sausages,
pancakes; you can see the yogurt
at the forefront


Elevators in general are very small, and at best 4 people without luggage can fit per trip. For the room we occupied, we had to climb a few short steps after the fifth floor stop where the double wooden door leads to the suite. There are no words to describe this room other than luxurious, and the sitting armchairs and table came right out of a dynastic movie. The photos do justice. If you come with a laptop, you'll have cable access in the room. There is also international direct phone dialing, a mini bar with liquor (individual bottles cost US$5.00), peanuts, other munchies (US$0.50/pack), and the small refrigerator is always stocked with bottled water.

the room before we moved in

As far as the hot water goes, in this particular hotel, you have to be lucky to catch a time when not too many folks are showering as you'll freeze to death. As customary, you will find all you need in the bathroom, including a hair dryer, toothbrushes and toothpaste. You may also order room service, which we did once or twice, but there are so many fabulous eateries around that you'd be missing out. The nem here is finger licking good.

This is also a place that has live entertainment in the evening. The musical instruments are hung on the wall above the stage. We entertained a business colleage of mine one evening here, but that's for another entry.